Drilling Ceramic Tiles: How To Drill Holes In Ceramic Tile

Drilling holes in ceramic tiles isn't as difficult as it might seem

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Are you afraid of drilling through ceramic wall tile in case you crack or scratch the tile? I know that I was the first time that I did it. The thought of having to replace a perfectly good tile because I had destroyed it with my drill was just a little daunting. Don't worry though, it isn't nearly as difficult as it looks and if you follow a few simple rules your ceramic tile drilling should turn out just fine.

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Use the correct type of drill bit

You need to use a carbide tipped drill bit for drilling into ceramics. The more common twist-drill bits that you might use for drilling into metal are not suitable because they will not be able to cut through the hard ceramic glaze on the tile. You may find that your DIY store has drill bits specialy marked for the purpose of drilling through ceramic tile.

Prevent the drill bit from slipping or skating on the ceramic surface

Take 2 pieces of masking tape and stick them on the ceramic tile in an 'X' pattern so that the hole will be in the center of the cross. This will help to stop the drill bit from slipping off target when drilling. Use a variable speed drill and start very slowly until the surface glaze has been penetrated to give the drill bit a guide. I like to drill very slowly all the way through to be on the safe side.

Change the drill bit when you are through the ceramic tile

When you feel the drill bit reaching the back of the tile be careful to slow down the drilling to ensure a clean exit at the back of the tile. When you are all the way through change the drill bit for one more suitable to drilling through the material that the ceramic tile is mounted on. You most likely will need either a wood drill or a masonry drill bit at this point.

Drilling a pilot hole

Unless I'm drilling a large hole in ceramic tile I never drill a pilot hole first but I do know that some people advise that you do. I prefer to be very careful and start drilling very slowly to make sure that I'm on target and the bit doesn't slip. I don't have to buy 2 ceramic tile drill bits that way.

Choosing a drill

When drilling ceramic tiles make sure that you use a power drill that has a variable speed control, which can be set to rotate very slowly. Portable battery operated power drills can be very good for this purpose.

Drilling Ceramic Tiles: How To Drill Holes In Ceramic Tile

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Driver 201

Dec 30, 2011 10:02:02

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>> Click here to update Christmas prices for Black & Decker DR560 1/2-Inch 7.0 Amp Drill/Driver <<

Christmas Sales Black & Decker DR560 1/2-Inch 7.0 Amp Drill/Driver Feature

7 Amp motor is powerful and compact to handle the toughest projects
All metal keyed chuck for added durability and better bit retention
Mid-handle design offers better balance and control
Comfort grip handle
360 degree side handle

Christmas Sales Black & Decker DR560 1/2-Inch 7.0 Amp Drill/Driver Overview

Reversible for backing out screws and jammed drill bits. Triple gear reduction for greater torque. Lock on switch for continuous use. Ball thrust and sleeve bearings. Side handle for greater control. Includes chuck key and 360 side handle. 0 750 RPM, 5A. 6' cord. Full 2 year home use warranty.

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Sport Nutrition Cordless Drill Driver Audio Surround Speakers

How to Wire Sprinkler Valves to the Timer

It can seem like a difficult task, but it is actually pretty easy if someone tells you how to do it. You will need a pair of wire strippers and a small screwdriver.

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Where to Buy the Right Wire

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The first step is to buy the right wire. Sprinkler wire is sold at hardware stores and sprinkler supply stores. If you need a lot of wire, it is better to shop at the sprinkler supply store. Sprinkler wire is an 18 gauge wire.

Number of Strands

A strand is the same thing as one wire. You should get one more strand than the number of valves being used. For example, a seven valve system would use an eight stranded wire (eight wires).

Solenoids

There is one solenoid per valve. Each solenoid has two wires already connected to it. Pick one wire from each solenoid and twist them tightly together. It doesn't matter which solenoid wire you pick.

White Wire or Common Wire

It's an unwritten rule that the white wire will be the common wire. Stick by this rule to prevent confusion by others working on your system. It's called common because it is used on all valves. The white wire will be hooked up to the large bundle of solenoid wires. For example, if you have four valves there will be four solenoid wires and one white common wire all hooked together with a wire connector.

Pick your Colors

Once the white wire is connected to one wire from each solenoid, pick any color you wish and connect it with a wire nut to the other solenoid wire. On a four valve system you might pick blue, black, green, and red for each valve and run the white wire to each valve as well. In total, for four valves, you will need five strands of 18 gauge sprinkler wire. Keeping track of colors will help you know which timer station will turn on which valve.

Run the Wire Back to the Clock

Take the wire to the timer. To get wire into the garage, it is helpful to use a hammer drill and some foam sealant around the wire hole.

Hooking Up the Timer

You will need a small screwdriver for most timers. Connect the white wire to the terminal that says C. Connect the colored wires to the additional terminals. It doesn't matter what order the colored wires are installed. You may want to have the wires in a certain order for your convenience, but it's not required. For example you may want station 1-3 to be the front yard only.

You will also need to hook up the power. Connect the power pack to the ac terminals. If you are using an outdoor timer, make sure you have a pigtail instead of an ac adapter.

Final Tip

Most contractors use silicone filled wire nuts. The theory is that they keep out water and make the connection last longer. However, many landscapers disagree. The silicone keeps out water but interferes with making a good tight connection. For this reason, we recommend using regular wire nuts. The ultimate wire connection is a regular orange wire nut in a grease filled cap. They are made for direct bury and somewhat over kill for sprinkler boxes, but if you want quality they will do an awesome job.

How to Wire Sprinkler Valves to the Timer

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Christmas Sales Black & Decker DR260B 3/8-Inch 5.2 Amp Drill/Driver 201

Dec 29, 2011 04:37:40

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Christmas Sales Black & Decker DR260B 3/8-Inch 5.2 Amp Drill/Driver Feature

Powerful and compact, handles tough tasks in tight spaces
Variable speed for controlled drilling and driving
On-board bit storage for quick access to screw driving bit
Bubble level aids in accurate drilling
Keyless chuck for quick and easy bit changes

Christmas Sales Black & Decker DR260B 3/8-Inch 5.2 Amp Drill/Driver Overview

5.0A, 0 1350 RPM. High power motor and double gear reduction. Mid handle design and 2 finger trigger. Includes heavy duty kit box. Lock on button for continuous use. Keyless chuck. 2 year home use warranty.

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Buying or Building Your Own Water Fountain

Things to Consider

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A great deal about fountains has changed over the last decade. Now there are really high class ones made of copper, bronze, concrete, and stone, and some fairly nice ones made of resin and fiberglass. There are several things to consider, though. As a pump wholesaler, I speak with fountain owners all the time and also look at lots of samples of fountains at trade shows and in magazines. Before purchasing a fountain, there are quite a few questions to ask. What looks good in a store might not look good at your home or business. Or it might look good for the first month or year but then you'll get tired of it. Fountains are usually around for a long time; in fact, concrete and stone ones last centuries and are hard to remove once they're installed. Here are things to consider.

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Bronze Fountains
These are at the high end of fountains, and can retail for ten to twenty thousand dollars. They are plain classy. But will one of these fit in where you want to put it? Do you have the right yard or business or location for such a classic kind of display? Also, do you like the aging process (the verdigris patina) that bronze undergoes. Can you afford one of these? If you answered yes to these questions, a bronze fountain might be right for you. It will last your lifetime, your kids' lifetimes, their kids' lifetimes, etc. And they are durable enough to be moved from house to house.
Copper Fountains
Like bronze fountains, these too tend to be classy, especially the name brand ones like Water Wonders, which mix copper with glass and slate. These make especially nice wall fountains. We have been selling Water Wonders fountains for several years at Fountain Mountain. There are certain things to think about, though. Are you locating the fountain in a room with good acoustics? Some rooms make the pump noise really echo, especially small rooms with walls that are close together. Do you know someone or can you hire an electrician to hide the cord in the wall? These fountains are a bit too expensive to buy if you're going to let the cord run outside the wall for everyone to see. Finally, it is a good idea to go listen to them run at a store before purchasing. Some of them make little water noise and some make a lot. To increase water sound you might have to turn up the pump to the point of there being slight splash. But if you are careful and go to a store with Water Wonders or other copper fountains on display before purchasing, and are happy with what you see and hear, these are great fountains.
Concrete Fountains
These still provide the most bang for the buck, primarily because concrete is so inexpensive. In fact, a huge part of the cost of concrete fountains is in transporting them to stores for sale and in the labor of painting them. The concrete itself is the least expensive part of the fountains' manufacture. There are some differences in how they are made, though. Some companies, like Brandelli's, use a "light" mix: their fountains are not nearly as heavy as those produced by, say, Avila's. Also, some companies like Brandelli's, use a stain over concrete, whereas others, like Avila's or Lomelli's, use paints (usually more than one at a time) or stains. Also, most concrete companies (though not all) reinforce their fountains with steel. This makes them strong but also means the concrete must be sealed. If not painted (as most fountains from Mexico are not), then they do need to have a clear sealant put on them. Otherwise the water will seep through to the steel, which will rust. Eventually, the fountain is likely to crack. One final word of advice on concrete, beware of "cute." Cute fountains (mama dogs with baby dogs, boys peeing) sometimes don't look so cute over time. Ask yourself if you'll still think the fountain is cute years later. Remember, concrete fountains can last hundreds of years. And they are difficult to move so pick something that will stay put. The traditional Italian 3-tier fountain is always a safe bet.
Resin and Fiberglass Fountains
The quality of these has gotten a lot better, and they have the clear advantage of being more easily handled than concrete ones. Some do look like concrete and stone, though they tend to look much more realistic at first glance than they do after a week has passed. Then it is pretty clear that they are faux. These are also a lot easier on employees who work in tores, as they don't have to worry as much about their backs. We would sell these at our store but just don't like their looks as well as the real thing.
Stone Fountains
These look incredibly good or mediocre. The handcrafted stone fountains out of Mexico and many of the large ones out of China are beautiful. But there are also mass-produced stone fountains, which use crushed stone mixed with resin. These just don't look like real stone to us even though they are.
Making Your Own Water Fountain
There are lots of ways to make your own fountains. The easiest way, perhaps, is to place a pump in a small tub or on some liner. Then place a wire or plastic grate on top of the tub or the liner, and layer pebbles, rocks, etc. over the wire or plastic grate. Your pump and plumbing will be hidden! No one will no where your water is coming from. You can then connect black PVC piping to the pump (black sprinkler pipe is incredibly inexpensive yet professional looking) and let the water rise up seemingly out of rocks in your yard. You won't have to worry much about pets as the water source is covered with stones. Likewise, you won't have to worry about kids drowning. You can also build a little waterfall over such a pit if you want, just throwing in boulders to hide your electric and tubing, etc. Some people use bamboo for spouts. You can also drill holes through slate (we've found it's really easy if you soak the slate for a day first). Slate is so porous, however, you ought to seal it once you're done drilling. You can also find rocks in nature that already have holes in them.
How Big of a Pump do I need?
Basically, if you buy a fountain at a store you should have instructions on the best size pump for that particular piece of garden art. If you are making your own fountain, here is a rule of thumb: for every inch of width you need to pump 100 gallons per hour. But note that a100 gallon per hour pump is not pumping the same volume at one foot head (elevation above the pump), two feet head, three feet, and so forth. If you are making your own fountain, it is likely you will have to guess which size to buy, and you might be wrong the first time you build one. Most pumps are adjustable but often can be adjusted down only a bit. However, magnetic-driven pumps, the most common kind, are inexpensive and durable. You can find them online at many wholesale pumps outlets.

Buying or Building Your Own Water Fountain
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Umbrella Reclining Stroller

Simple Generator

You can make a simple generator from household things. This generator is so simple that you do not need commutator. The electrical energy from the generator is directly attached to the lamp. Lights will keep turned on in a stable and appropriate voltage.

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The things that you need to be prepared are:

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- a nail 8cm
- 100 grams of 0.1mm wire (maximum size)
- A bulb/LED lights 1,5 Volt /25mA
- Used box ( Plexiglas or cardboard), measured 30cm x 8cm
- 4 magnets (5cm x 2cm x 1cm)
- A roll of tape to cover the wire
- Sandpaper
- A small electric drill to rotate its rotor (optional)

Warning:

Keep out your magnet of all electronic equipment (PC, Hand-phone, Television, credit cards, etc) to prevent them from any impact of the magnet.

The first step that you need to do is start to make a box out of a Plexiglas or cardboard. You should be measured them by 8cm x 8cm, 8cm x 3.5cm, 8cm x 8cm, 8cm x 3cm, 8cm x 7.5cm. The wire should be placed as close as possible to the magnet to get maximum results. You should also measure the magnet properly. Pierce the nail on the center line of the box till translucent canopy. Make the hole as fit as possible. Do not make an over-sized hole; just make sure that the nail has enough space to rotate. Do not for get to remove the back nail.

Take 10cm wire email tape the wire in the middle of the box then start rolling. Roll the wire from the middle and take it down or up then rose again to above/below, and so on. For the remaining 10cm wire you can also put it in the middle position. It does not matter if the nail hole is closed. Wrap the roll with the tape while holding the end of the wire but do not wrap the nail hole. Clear the yellow coating (2 cm or more) using sandpaper. Stretch the wire carefully to put the nail in the hole.

Make 2 pairs of magnets, stick them on each pair. Stick them on a nail in the box, extend it laterally (cross-shaped). Adjust the position of the magnets to be exactly same and balance. Try to rotate the nail to make it sure that the nail spins freely. You can tape the magnet so it will not fall from the nail.

Make sure that the tip of the wire has been cleaned out from its coat so that the electric current can turn on the lamps better. The last step is you need to connect the wire from the generator to the lamp. Make sure you have separates the wire to avoid short circuit.

Simple Generator

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Christmas Sales Black & Decker DR560 1/2-Inch 7.0 Amp Drill/Driver 201

Dec 27, 2011 07:17:27

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Christmas Sales Black & Decker DR560 1/2-Inch 7.0 Amp Drill/Driver Feature

7 Amp motor is powerful and compact to handle the toughest projects
All metal keyed chuck for added durability and better bit retention
Mid-handle design offers better balance and control
Comfort grip handle
360 degree side handle

Christmas Sales Black & Decker DR560 1/2-Inch 7.0 Amp Drill/Driver Overview

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Bob Stroller

Hitting Through the Golf Ball to Improve Your Drive

Once the swing gets down to the so-called hitting area correctly, the chance of its going wrong is very slight. That is because, the swing through the golf ball is only a continuation of the first movement of the downswing, the movement that brings us to the hitting area. By the same token a swing which reaches this area in the wrong position has no chance to get straightened out.

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Yet, golf being the strange game that it is, there is still the possibility of the good swing going off the track at this latestage.

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In both the good swing and the bad, though, when the flaws appear they appear for basically the same reason-trying to"help" the club head get to the golf ball.

They will appear in the good swing when the player loosens his left-hand grip slightly and collapses his left elbow. As the result of these actions there comes a peculiar body movement, asort of heaving action, as though the player were trying, with the body, to help the swing or help hit the golf ball. It is a very strange contortion indeed. Women, especially, are given to it.

In this movement the loosening left-hand grip and the collapsing left elbow have the effect of bringing the club up sharply instead of letting it go down and through the golf ballas it should. The left elbow crooks and bends out to the left, toward the target. This suddenly shortens the radius of the swing, and since the straight left arm has been performing the function of a constant radius all through the swing, there is nothing for the club to do but come up.

The horrible result is a badly topped shot. The club, coming up at impact, makes contact on or above the horizontal center line of the golf ball, the ball's "equator." How badly the shot is topped depends only on how much the club is brought up by the elbow action and the shortening of the radius. It is a dead certain way to bounce or dribble your shot into any brook, pond, or ditch that happens to be immediately in front of you.

So try to hit through the golf ball and you'll see straighter and further golf drives.

Hitting Through the Golf Ball to Improve Your Drive

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Computer Monitor 17 Inch

How to Bake a Potato on a Gas Grill

Two Takes on a Classic: How to Bake Potatoes on Your Gas Grill

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What's the perfect accompaniment to your grilled steak? A baked potato, of course! If you associate baking a potato with an oven, then think again. Baking potatoes on the grill alongside your meat creates an easy meal option that lets you stay outside and avoid heating up the kitchen.

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Baking potatoes on your gas grill is so easy that anyone can do it. In fact, gas grills are ideal for cooking potatoes because the heat is so even. Whether you're a traditional potato eater who likes a steaming baked potato with sour cream, or you're a potato skin lover who likes to score presentation points, you'll be able to grill your potatoes with ease.

Here are two simple options for flawless grilled potatoes.

Option 1: The Traditional Whole Potato

After thoroughly washing the potatoes, spread a thin layer of cooking oil on aluminum foil. Use about 1 tbsp. for each potato. The oil will help keep the potato moist. If you're feeling adventurous, try adding some spices or herbs to the oil. For example, you can sprinkle some garlic and pepper or a little cayenne pepper as you spread the oil evenly across the foil. Wrap each potato individually in the aluminum foil. Put the grill on low heat. You might want to start baking the potatoes before you cook the rest of your meal. They will stay hot for several minutes wrapped in the foil. You can also microwave them ahead of time to reduce cooking time. If you do choose to microwave, be sure to poke holes in the potatoes with a fork. You can place the potatoes anywhere on the grill, but avoid the hottest part. The top rack is the most convenient place, reserving the main shelf for your meat. Cook for approximately 45 minutes, turning occasionally. Cook with the lid closed. Potatoes are done when a fork is easily inserted into the center, or they feel slightly soft when squeezed. Do not overcook.
Option 2: Crispy Potato Halves

If you're interested in a prettier presentation, faster cook time, and crispy skins, try these simple steps:

Slice the potatoes in two, lengthwise. Score the tops of the potatoes to create a grid pattern that makes a nice presentation and speeds grill cooking time. Brush the tops of the potatoes with cooking oil. Sprinkle seasonings (herbs, spices, salt, pepper, etc.) to taste. Place skinside down on the top shelf of the grill. Cook for about 30 minutes. Follow these easy steps to bake a traditional foil wrapped potato, or a crispy open-faced potato. Try both recipes for variety. Either way, you'll create a tasty side dish that will complement your steak, chicken, or other meat. Throw your vegetables on the grill, too, and you'll have a perfect meal all cooked in one place with easy clean-up.

How to Bake a Potato on a Gas Grill

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Christmas Sales DEWALT DWD115K 8 Amp 3/8-Inch VSR Mid-Handle Grip Drill Kit with Keyless Chuck 201

Dec 25, 2011 10:06:24

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Christmas Sales DEWALT DWD115K 8 Amp 3/8-Inch VSR Mid-Handle Grip Drill Kit with Keyless Chuck Feature

8.0 Amp motor delivers high performance in heavy-duty applications
3/8-inch all-metal ratcheting keyless chuck for greater bit retention
0-2,500 RPM, vSR trigger for versatility in drilling and fastening applications
Mid-handle grip design with soft grip provides increased balance and comfort
All ball-bearing construction provides greater durability and longer tool life

Christmas Sales DEWALT DWD115K 8 Amp 3/8-Inch VSR Mid-Handle Grip Drill Kit with Keyless Chuck Overview

Versatile and easy to handle, the DEWALT DWD115K 3/8-Inch VSR Mid-Handle Drill Kit with Keyless Chuck delivers the power you need in a light-duty drill for all your drilling and fastening projects. Enjoy the drill's variable-speed trigger, convenient reversing switch, and comfortable mid-handle grip, so you can work smarter for longer.

3/8-Inch VSR Mid-Handle Drill Kit with Keyless Chuck
At a Glance:

Reliable 8 amp motor
Variable-speed control from 0 to 2,500 rpm
Soft, non-slip rubber grip and lightweight design
Three-year limited warranty, one-year free service, 90-day money-back guarantee

DEWALT (DWD115K) 3/8-Inch VSR Mid-Handle Drill Kit with Keyless Chuck

The VSR Mid-Handle Drill is ideal for a wide range of drilling and fastening applications. View larger.

Mid-Handle Grip

Patented DEWALT-Built Motor with Overload Protection
With its powerful 8 amp motor, the DEWALT DWD115K 3/8-Inch VSR Mid-Handle Drill is capable of delivering speeds of 0 to 2,500 rpm. This translates to quick, versatile drilling and driving.

Designed for Versatility and Durability
The dependable DWD115K is versatile enough for common around-the-home tasks and light, job-site work. The reversible drill features a 1-inch capacity when working in wood with a spade bit, and it can handle a capacity of 1-1/8 inches when used in wood with a hole saw. When used in steel with a twist bit, the drill can handle a capacity of 3/8 inch.

Its 3/8-inch ratcheting keyless chuck tightens as you work to deliver greater bit retention, and the drill's ball-bearing construction provides added durability.

Built with Comfortable, Accurate Handling in Mind
Comfortable handling goes a long way toward ensuring accurate results. The DWD115K is built to allow ergonomic hand positioning, and its soft grip and well-balanced design offer improved user comfort and better overall command of the drill. It also weighs an easy-to-manage 4.1 pounds, decreasing user fatigue after extended use.

The 3/8-Inch VSR Mid-Handle Drill Kit with Keyless Chuck comes with a DEWALT warranty package that includes a three-year limited warranty, a one-year free service contract, and a 90-day money-back guarantee.

What's in the Box
DWD115K 3/8-Inch VSR Mid-Handle Drill and kit box.

The DEWALT VSR Mid-Handle Drill comes with a durable kit box for safe keeping.

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Makita 6408 4.9-Amp 3/8-Inch Drill

Christmas Sales Makita 6408 4.9-Amp 3/8-Inch Drill 201

Dec 24, 2011 11:30:16

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Christmas Sales Makita 6408 4.9-Amp 3/8-Inch Drill Feature

Powerful 4.9-amp motor
Keyless chuck for fast and easy bit installation and removal
Large trigger switch for easy operation
Variable speed (0- to 2,500-rpm) for drilling in a wide variety of materials
Low decibel rating (79dB) for quieter operation

Christmas Sales Makita 6408 4.9-Amp 3/8-Inch Drill Overview

This unit features a powerful 4.9 amp motor with keyless chuck for convenient bit installation and removal. It has a large trigger switch for easy operation. Drill a variety of materials at variable speeds (0 - 2,500 rpm). This drill is easy on the ears with a low decibel rating (79dB) for quieter operation. Its in-line handle design means maximum power thrust. It has a large recessed lock-on button and the reversing switch is conveniently located. Makita's all ball bearing construction means longer tool life. Your purchase includes keyless chuck.

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Electrical Earth - Why Do We Need It?

This article will deal with the electrical earth arrangements in a domestic dwelling in the UK. Contrary to a lot of peoples notions the earth is very necessary.

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Why do we have an earth in our houses? To answer that requires a little explanation of how electricity reaches our homes and how fuses work.

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Electricity is generated at power stations or similar installations,
wind farms, hydro-electric turbines etc. These plants generate the electricity which is the transformed up to around four hundred thousand volts and distributed around the country via the national grid.

It is easy and cost effective to transport electricity at these incredibly high voltages but obviously it once again has to be transformed back down to 230 volts for use in the house.

At the transformer the centre of the winding is connected via rods or mats, to the earth. This earthing of the winding provides a reference point, nominally zero volts. Electricity is then supplied at 230 volts to this reference.

To be useful electricity requires a circuit. The electricity must flow from a source, through the device whatever it may be, kettle, iron cooker etc. and return to that source.

To protect the cable in which it flows the amount of electricity must not exceed the capability of the cable. This would be an overload in the long term, in the short term a fault in the cable or any device attached to it will cause a large amount of electricity to flow and it is this that blows the fuse.

The amount of electricity needed to blow a fuse is determined by the rating of the fuse itself, i.e. a current of around 1.6 times the fuse rating is required to operate a re-wirable fuse so a 20A fuse will need approximately 32 amps.

To facilitate the quick and efficient operation of the fuse the electrical earth provides a quick route back to the source, that is the transformer. The better the return path, the more electricity flows and the quicker the fuse operates.

The circuit that the live conductor and the earthing conductor form is called the earth loop. The earth loop is measured with a special tester and must conform to certain constraints for the variety of fuses available.

The requirements for each type of fuse, properly called a protective device, are laid down in the wiring regulations. The electrical earth therefore, is extremely important for the safety of any user of electrical system. The absence of the earthing conductor means that any fault on the system will not operate the fuse until you or one of your family becomes that missing part.

Electrical Earth - Why Do We Need It?

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Christmas Sales SE 3 Pc. Power Extension Socket Bits for Drills 201

Dec 23, 2011 12:56:12

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Christmas Sales SE 3 Pc. Power Extension Socket Bits for Drills Feature

Power Extension Bar Sizes: 1/4" Hex X 1/4"Dr. 1/4" Hex X 3/8"Dr. 1/4" Hex X 1/2"Dr.
Chrome - Vanadium Steel
Heat - Treated
Made In China

Christmas Sales SE 3 Pc. Power Extension Socket Bits for Drills Overview

Add versatility to your power drills. 3pc Power Extension Socket Adaptor has Hex bit for all power drill chucks. Comes in 3 Sizes : 1/4 in. , 3/8 in. & 1/2 in.for your full range of sockets.

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The DIY Way To Sharpen Lawn Mower Blades

Is your lawn mower tearing of the lawn grass blades instead of cutting it? Does your lawn look like it has been eaten by a goat, in spite of being cut by the lawn mower? Wait; do not pull your hair by the root. Help is at hand. We will teach you how to sharpen the lawn mower blades at minimum price and effort.

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Your Manual Lawn Mower - The Faithful Walk Behinds

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Tools: The tools that your will require for doing this job are

You and your time of about 2 hours or less

A bastard file of about 12" long

A small crow bar to prevent movement of rotor of lawn mower.

A worktable will be useful for dong the job comfortably.

Procedure: You can use the following procedure as a general guide and make changes to it to suit you. Remember the procedure is not sacrosanct. The results are important, not the procedure.

If possible, remove the handle of lawn mower and place lawn mower on the table.

Secure it if possible in the clamps. If you do not have clamps, do not bother, secure it against any block, so that the movement away from you is restricted.

Fix the crowbar in the blades so that it will not rotate

With the help of the bastard file, file the edges of blades so that they look sharp. Work at an angle of 45 degrees

When one blade is sharpened, remove the crowbar and turn the rotor to work on another blade. Repeat the procedure until all blades are sharpened.

If you have a flexible shaft grinder in your DIY workshop, you will be able to complete the work within 5 to 10 minutes per blade. Make a template of blade profile before you start your work and compare frequently. This is necessary to ensure that you do not over cut at a place.

Safety Tip For You

While sharpening the blades ensure that the stroke is not too long otherwise, you may injure yourself.

Sharpening Blades Of Power Mower

Depending upon the lawn mower the procedure may vary. We have included general statements in this procedure; you would have to change the procedure slightly. Keep the maintenance manual of lawn mower handy if you have one.

Tools required.

Siphon hose and clean container

Heavy work gloves and goggles

Double-cut (medium-rough) flat file

Lumber scrap

Socket wrench set

Rubber mallet*

Bench vise or C clamps

Rotary blade sharpener accessory

Electric drill*

Screwdriver, or 1/4-in. rod or bolt*

Blade balancer

Replacement blade*

* Only if required

The list may look formidable, but tools are generally available with every DIY enthusiast.

Procedure:

The procedure is given for the simple single blade lawn mower, but the same will apply to all types of blades, whether single or double

Wear hand gloves and clean the engine and the gasoline tank from outside

Remove spark plug from the engine

Remove all the fuel from the tank of the gasoline engine. Use the siphon hose so you do not spill gasoline on floor.

Completely empty out the oil from gearbox if you have one

Invert the engine and have access to the blade.

Clamp the engine so it does not move and clean the blade area thoroughly

With help of a box spanner, remove the nut holding the blade. Usually the nut will be unlocked in the reverse to direction of rotation of engine. You may engage the screwdriver in the cooling fan of engine to stop rotation of engine.

If you find that you are using too much force to unlock the nut, put one or two drops of rust removing chemical, and try after 30 minutes

After you remove the blade, clamp it in the bench vise and sharpen it with a file or a grinder. Sharpen only the outer 2 to 3 inches. The area to be sharpened will be known if you see the blade.

Sharpen only to the required extent. Too much sharpening is not necessary. This is not the knife. It works at the speed of the engine

After sharpening, check with your thumb. Be careful not to cut thumb. If you have done sharpening before, or seen some one doing it, you will know what we mean by this.

Balance the blade with help of a small balancing tool on VEE blocks, or even on two foot rulers placed side by side

Refit the blades, refill engine oil and gasoline and test the sharpness of blades on uncut portion of your lawn

Safety tips:

Always use safety goggles and hand gloves when working with power tools.

Be sure to remove the spark plug before starting. Serious accidents can happen if you do not do this.

The DIY Way To Sharpen Lawn Mower Blades

Drill Electric

Headrest Dvd Monitors 32 Led Lcd Hdtv Carbon Steel Wok

Registry Easy Review - Do Not Buy Registry Easy Before Read You This Registry Easy Review 2009

(Updated in February 2010 ) Are you on the verge of buying Registry Easy? Have you considered or tried any other registry cleaners before buying registry easy? What is so different or unique in Registry Easy that have convinced you to check more software? Maybe, a friend of yours have recommended or you might have read a good registry easy review that have brought you on the verge of buying this software. Well, it's time for you to hear my experience with Registry Easy before purchasing.

Drill Electric

Before using this Registry Easy, I wasn't sure of buying this software since I had used to other 2 other registry cleaners which didn't make any significant difference in my computer but in Registry Easy I realized I had nothing to lose since there was a 60 days money back guarantee. So I went ahead and bought it. Since then, I never regretted the decision I took. Because I never had to look for any other registry cleaners. I never faced any registry problems and my computer was running at the same speed as I experienced when I was using my computer for the first time.

Drill Electric

I wanted to know how registry cleaners work. The first thing which I noticed after scanning and fixing with this software was that when I checked my windows task manager with ctrl, alt and delete, I could see the CPU Usage was much lower than it was before. That's when I realized that this software had really worked because I couldn't see those differences in the previous registry cleaner's that I had used.

Registry Easy is really easy to use. The first time when I scanned, it took me less than 2 minutes to scan the system. It immediately created the back up of registry and found more than 1500 errors and fixed all of them. I was quite surprised as I had never seen such a large number of errors in my system with other registry cleaners. I did a cross check in search engines and in this software's official website and realized that registry easy has the highest number of error definitions and it also counts all the small minute registry problems which others usually ignore.

Not surprisingly, I had noticed in the official website that Registry Easy has been downloaded more than 4 million times in over 100 different countries. It has also been awarded by many top authority sites to be the #1 registry cleaner. Here are some of the top unique features of Registry Easy which makes me love this software:

- Creates backup before performing the scan.

- Can fix most of the corrupted dll files of your system.

- Can fix all the registry errors it locates.

- Has a startup manager with option to disable and remove programs.

- Can fix your browser to the default state.

- Can remove unused browser plugins to experience faster browser experience.

- Can optimize your system

- Can optimize your Internet

- Can tweak your memory to make your system run more faster.

Registry Easy Review - Do Not Buy Registry Easy Before Read You This Registry Easy Review 2009

Drill Electric

Christmas Sales Bosch 36618-02 18-Volt 1/2-Inch Compact-Tough Litheon Drill/Driver with 2 Slim Batteries 201

Dec 20, 2011 04:31:53

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>> Click here to update Christmas prices for Bosch 36618-02 18-Volt 1/2-Inch Compact-Tough Litheon Drill/Driver with 2 Slim Batteries <<

Christmas Sales Bosch 36618-02 18-Volt 1/2-Inch Compact-Tough Litheon Drill/Driver with 2 Slim Batteries Feature

New compact, tough design for increased maneuverability and less user fatigue
Features 0-500/0-1,600 RPM and 500 inch-pounds of torque
20-position clutch settings for precise driving applications
State-of-the-art lithium-ion battery technology coupled with ECP system guarantees the optimal performance of tool and batteries
LED light is great for dark or enclosed areas

Christmas Sales Bosch 36618-02 18-Volt 1/2-Inch Compact-Tough Litheon Drill/Driver with 2 Slim Batteries Overview

Built tough, the Bosch 36618-02 18-Volt 1/2-Inch Compact-Tough Litheon Drill/Driver with Two Slim Pack Batteries is a durable, powerful, and compact tool for high-quality results. Featuring Durashield housing to guard against wear and tear, the 36618-02 utilizes an 18-volt Litheon battery, which provides 35% more runtime and two times the recharge cycles of its competitors.

The 36618-02 Litheon Drill/Driver offers:

18-volt Litheon batteries for long-lasting performance.
Up to 1,600 RPM and 500 in./lbs. of torque.
20 clutch settings and a variable-speed trigger for versatility.
One-handed bit changes.

Pictured with a Fat Pack battery.
Even though this tool comes with 2 Slim Packs, you can purchase a Fat Pack separately and get more run time--2.6 Ah vs. 1.3 Ah with the Slim Pack. No other company provides this option.
View larger.

18-Volt Litheon Batteries for Maximum Runtime and Manageability
The 36618-02 utilizes state-of-art lithium-ion battery technology and Bosch's proprietary ECP (Electronic Cell Protection) system to provide maximum cycle life, minimum self-discharge, and no memory-effect. Best of all, Litheon batteries will fully charge in 30 minutes and will be at 85% capacity in just 15 minutes.

Handle grip with finger support provides maximum control. View larger.

Up to one pound lighter than comparable 18-volt NiCad drills/drivers, the 36618-02 won't weigh you down. It's ideal for a wide range of drilling and fastening jobs, from hanging curtains to building a deck; from making automotive repairs to installing cabinetry.

Unique, Flexible Power System
Like all tools in Bosch's 18-Volt line, this drill/driver can be used with either a 1.3-Ah BAT609 Slim Pack battery (two included) or a 2.6-Ah BAT318 Fat Pack. If you're looking for a lighter-weight option, the Slim Pack is the perfect choice. If longer runtime is what you need, the Fat Pack will do the job. Bosch is the only power tool manufacturer that provides this option.

Fast Speeds, High Torque, and Durable Construction for Reliable Results
The 36618-02 works at speeds up to 1,600 RPM and provides 500 in./lbs. of torque. Durashield housing, unibody construction, and a steel-reinforced collar help you withstand real-world conditions, like temperature extremes, rain, dirt, debris, and drops.

The 36618-02's Durashield Housing is constructed with ABS/Nylon composite, which makes the housing flexible and impenetrable. Unlike competitive tools, which use a conventional plastic housing, Durashield will not crack and can easily withstand 10-foot drops.

This tool also features unique unibody construction with three steel straps that keep the motor, gears, and clutch together. This ensures that the gears never separate from the motor, and it keeps the drill functioning even after drops.

Additionally, the 36618-02 boasts an exclusive steel-reinforced collar that protects the nose of the drill. It provides extra reinforcement in the event of drops on the chuck and prevents the chuck from bending or breaking off.

Easy Bit Changes and Balanced Design for Utmost Control
The 36618-02 comes complete with a single-sleeve 1/2-inch chuck for one-handed bit changes, as well as increased drill-bit capacity for versatility. And for maximum control, comfort, and balance, the tool boasts a newly designed handle-grip with finger support.

Smart Features for Easy Use
20 clutch settings and a variable-speed trigger help you match the best speed to the job, so you can achieve precise results. At the same time, the 36618-02's ergonomic design provides optimum comfort and control. And for even greater convenience, LEDs provide illumination when you are working in dark or enclosed areas.

ProVantage Guarantee
The 36618-02 comes with the ProVantage three-year protection plan, which guarantees two years of battery protection and one year of tool protection. Under this plan, you can receive two years of free battery replacements, tool replacement for one year, and a free tool repair package for the second and third years.

What's in the Box
Drill/driver; two Litheon Slim Packs; 30-minute charger; double-ended bit; and carrying case.


18V Lithium Ion Family of Tools
For more information, click on the images below

17618-01 1/2-Inch Brute Tough Hammer Drill/Driver	37618-01 1/2-Inch Brute Tough Drill/Driver	36618-02 1/2-Inch Compact Tough Drill/Driver	CCS180(K)(B) 6.5-Inch Circular Saw Blade Kit	CRS180(K)(B) Reciprocating Saw Kit

25618-01 Impact Driver w/Two Fat Batteries	25618-02 Impact Driver w/Two Slim Batteries	24618-01 1/2-Inch Impact Wrench w/Two Fat Batteries	IWH181-01 3/8-Inch Impact Wrench w/Two Fat Batteries	CFL180 Cordless Flashlight

CLPK23-180 1/2-Inch Drill/Driver and Impactor Driver Two-Tool Combo Kit	CLPK22-180 Hammer Drill/Driver and Impactor Driver Two-Tool Combo Kit	CLPK20-180 Hammer Drill/Driver and Reciprocating Saw Two-Tool Combo Kit	CLPK21-180 Hammer Drill/Driver and Circular Saw Two-Tool Combo Kit	CLPK40-180 Reciprocating Saw, Circular Saw, Hammer Drill/Driver, and Flashlight Four-Tool Combo Kit